On
The Road...
With Connie
Ellig & David Hopps
From
September 20-27, we traveled from our home in Ensenada to Bay of L.A. Our
assignment was to shoot photos and compile information for the Baja
California State Secretary of Tourism for a new brochure that
would promote Bahia de los Angeles, one of the most beautiful bays in the
state, where desert and mountains meet the Sea of Cortez. We were accompanied
by our two dogs, boxes of Ensenada brochures for the L.A. Bay Tourist Information
Office at Guillermo's Restaurant, and lots of camera equipment. We met
new friends, rediscovered old ones, explored new places and shot a lot
of film. This is the story of our photographic, eco-touristic and culinary
odyssey.
Mon., Sept. 20
9pm - After spending 1 1/2 days packing the Suburban, we finally departed
from Ensenada much
later than anticipated. Driving at night in Baja generally is not a good
idea. Numerous semis, vehicles lacking proper lights and variable highway
conditions challenge even the most experienced driver. Mexican auto insurance
is a must.
9:45pm - After topping the tank, checking tire pressure, etc., we finally
reached El Zorrillocheckpoint several miles
south of Maneadero at Km. 31.5. Although
we were prepared with proper documentation to travel further south, there
were no Immigration officials present that night. We received a cursory
inspection for drugs and guns from the federal police (PGR) who waved us
on our merry way. Without further ado, we continued to
San Quintin and camped at Rancho Cielito
Lindo.
Tues., Sept. 21
8am - We awoke to the splatter of rain, courtesy of Hurricane Hillary,
and then chatted with Cielito Lindomanager
Kim Haga, Juanita's daughter, now in charge of hotel and San
Quintin Sportfishing reservations at tel. 619-593-2252 (voice
mail) or e-mail: [email protected].
10am - On the highway about 7 miles south, we encountered a half mile
of road work with only one lane open. Since there was little traffic, there
was only a short delay.
11am - After topping off in El
Rosario, we stopped at Espinoza's
Restaurant. Manager Roly Espinoza assured us that "Mama" (Dona
Anita) was in good health and wished us "Vaya con Dios." Taking that literally,
we visited
Mision de Nuestra Senora del Rosario
in "upper" El Rosario, about 1/4 mile south of the Delegacion Office. The
side road east is marked with a small sign; the mission is about 100 yards
from the highway.
1:15pm - No gasoline in Catavina
and no idea when it is expected. We purchased wild honey at the cafe/mini
market across the highway. Just south of the Rancho Santa Ines turnoff,
we encountered a military checkpoint. After a courteous "Where are you
from?" and "Where are you going?" we were waved on.
4pm
- We arrived in Bahia de los Angeles,
a process that took longer than usual because of patches of potholes along
the L.A. Bay highway. Our advice is to stay alert and take it easy. It's
better to let the fishing wait than to risk a flat tire or broken trailer
axle.
Near the town entrance gasoline was available from
drums for 5.58 pesos/liter. (Ouch!!! The normal price for Magna is 4.45
pesos/liter at Pemex stations. But since gas is hauled 120 miles from Guerrero
Negro, we suppose folks are entitled to make a profit on it.)
Since the official "tourism headquarters" at Guillermo's
Hotel were booked up, we spent our first night in a beachfront cabana at
Casa
Diaz (dbl. occ. $25dlls., triple $28dlls.). Although rustic
and in need of a little paint, our room was very clean. In addition to
beds, there were lightweight folding cots that we moved onto the porch.
Since the weather was hot and humid, the porch was our favorite place to
enjoy the slight ocean breeze. Coincidentally, our neighboring guest was
a doctor from Ensenada who used to live across the street from us! (Casa
Diaz reservations tel. (66)50-3207, fax (66)50-3206)
We dined at the Isla, a
fairly new restaurant with an oceanview palapa atop Isla Market, located
near the town entrance. The fairly extensive menu featured seafood and
Mexican dishes served from 7am-9pm. The service was good, the atmosphere
pleasant, the portions abundant. Scallops in garlic butter, carne asada
Tampiquena, a beer and a soda were reasonably priced at $18dlls.
Wed., Sept. 22
5:30am - David took off on a panga with Tourism Delegate Guillermo
Galvan to shoot photos of fishermen from Fresno, Ca. and Mexicali, B.C.
I enjoyed the beachfront breeze, took a dip in the warm sea, and began
writing this report.
11:30am
- David returned from the fishing trip with tales of yellowtail, cabrilla
and triggerfish, and sightings of a finback whale and schools of leaping
dolphin. After a brief siesta, we relocated to Guillermo's
Hotel. Our beachfront room was very huge and very clean, with
a large dressing room and separate bath (dbl. occ. approx. $60dlls., each
add'l person $11dlls.). Once again, our favorite spot was the porch. (Guillermo's
Hotel reservations: (66)50-3209)
We enjoyed an evening dinner of delicious fresh
fish fillet in garlic butter and Scallops Guillermo (wrapped in bacon with
butter, garlic and wine sauce), then scheduled a boat cruise to the islands
for the following morning. We then watched a full moon light up the bay.
Thurs., Sept. 23
7am - An overcast day had dawned. Since our main objective was to shoot
photos, we were forced to re-schedule our cruise. However, we decided to
make full use of our time by exploring the area north of town on the dirt
road to Punta La Gringa.
10:30am
- Our first stop was at Brisa Marina RV Park,an
abandoned looking camp that houses CRIP Sea Turtle Conservation & Research
Center, also known as "Tony's Turtle Farm"
because it is run by government biologist Antonio Resendiz. We didn't meet
Tony, but we did meet about two dozen tagged Loggerhead Sea Turtles. The
Loggerhead, which can grow up to 400 lbs., is one of seven species of marine
turtle found in temperate and subtropical ocean waters across the globe.
After admiring and photographing these interesting creatures, we continued
north to Daggett's Campground.
We were greeted by Ruben Daggett, grandson of Dick
Daggett, one of the legendary pioneer founders of Bahia de los Angeles.
Ruben showed us around his spotless beachfront campground which featured
19 palapas, BBQ pits, a shaded fish cleaning station, boat ramp, RV dump
and bathrooms with hot showers ($6dlls. for 2 persons, $2dlls. each add'l).
Kayaks and pangas for fishing, diving or whale watching trips were also
available. (Daggett's reservations tel. (66)50-3207, fax (66)50-3206) We
shot photos of Larry & Susan S., first-time visitors from Escondido,
Calif., who were pleased to assume the difficult pose of relaxing under
the shade of their palapa.
We continued "next door" to Larry
& Raquel's Place, L.A. Bay's
newest 5-room (4 more under construction) motel on the beach. Owners Raquel
& Larry Fife gave us a mini-tour of the spacious rooms (dbl. occ. $40dlls.)
and restaurant featuring seafood and Mexican dishes from 7am-10pm. Additional
amenities included a boat ramp, kayak rentals and dive shop with tanks
and compressor. (Raquel's reservations tel. (619)429-7935, 1-800-670-7075,
e-mail: [email protected])
2:30pm - We followed the winding road to Punta
La Gringa, usually full of campers, but on this day, deserted.
We decided to return to town to shoot the designated "room photo" at Costa
del Sol, the town's second-newest hotel.
Designed by architect/manager Sandra Lopez, Costa
del Sol Hotel features a quaint
courtyard patio, cozy bar that also serves breakfast, and 7 tastefully
decorated rooms with 24-hour solar-powered air-conditioning (dbl. occ.
$50dlls.). We took our time shooting photos in air-conditioned comfort.
(Costa del Sol reservations/kayak rentals cell tel. (6)185-5835, cell (5)151-4195,
fax (66)50-3206, e-mail: [email protected])
After the long and exhausting day, we grilled Louisiana
hot links on our barbecue and slipped into sleep.
Fri., Sept. 24
7am
- The day was clear so we loaded up cameras, a cooler, dogs and ourselves
aboard Guillermo's panga with Island Cruise Tour guide Pepe
Smith. We saw schools of leaping dolphin in the bay, large colonies
of sea lions at Isla Calaveras, and the natural "window" at Isla La Ventana.
Upon Pepe's recommendation we waded ashore at La Unica Wilderness Retreat
to take a few shots.
We were greeted by Kevin Warren, owner of Baja
Airventures, which features all-inclusive (including private
R/T air from San Diego) eco-adventure vacations to this unique getaway
that is accessible only by boat. Situated on a beautiful white sand beach,
La
Unica offers private bungalows,
a central palapa that serves as a dining area, cantina and lounge, and
the opportunity to explore nearby reefs and hidden coves by kayak, skiff
or sailboat. (La Unica reservations tel. 1-800-221-9283, fax (619)216-3446,
or visit www.bajaairventures.com)
Pepe motored north along the coast to Puerto
Don Juan, a natural harbor with pristine waters and excellent
anchorage. Complete with a half sunken boat, sand and pebble beaches, this
hidden cove was right out of a movie set!
Noon
- Back at Guillermo's, we thanked Pepe for the fantastic sightseeing cruise
and promised to try the local fishing next time! We had no sooner spoken
than Richard L., of Lake Havasu City, Az., pulled up with his trailered
C-Dory, eight 15-20 lb. yellowtail and a few cabrilla hooked with mackerel
near Smith Island. He and his fishing guide, Joel Prieta, posed for a few
shots until, dog-tired from the fresh sea breeze, the four of us retired
for a siesta.
6pm - We stopped for ice at Isla Market, the
newest and most modern grocery store in town. Similar to an AM-PM, Isla
is well-stocked with a bit of everything: liquor, beer, toiletries, non-prescription
medicines, paper goods, Mexican and U.S. dairy products, cold meats, snacks
and canned goods, and a limited supply of fresh vegetables. We met owner
Rodolfo Espejo, who recently opened Isla
Construction Materials which offers cement blocks, paint, waterproofing
and other building supplies. His friend, Octavio Lopez, offered to take
David halfway up a mountain to shoot panoramic photos on the following
afternoon. After chitchat in the parking lot, we headed across the street
to Restaurant Las Hamacas.
We dined on the oceanview terrace. After sampling
chips with a wonderfully spicy serrano salsa, we savored hearty portions
of carne asada Tampiquena and scallops in garlic butter. Open 6am-9pm (closed
Tues.), the restaurant features a good selection of reasonably priced
Mexican and seafood dishes including lobster in season. Las Hamacas also
offers a 10-room hotel (dbl. occ. $35-55dlls.) and local or long distance
taxi service (tel. (66)50-3207, fax (66)50-3206).
Sat., Sept. 25
8am - After several cups of courtesy coffee, we set off to explore
the area south of town on the road to San Francisquito. But after traveling
only a few miles along the bumpy dirt road, our cooling system sprang a
leak, so it was back to town for repairs.
2pm
- Time to shoot our designated "dining photo" on Guillermo's beachfront
palapa patio. We enlisted the aid of Amber W. and Chuck S., first-time
visitors from San Francisco, Ca., who were happy to assume the difficult
pose of sipping pina coladas and margaritas laced with Damiana liqueur.
Afterward, I checked out Richard's L.'s catch of three 25-30 lb. yellowtail
while David took off to pick up our vehicle, visit the museum, and shoot
panoramic photos with Octavio.
6pm - We spent the evening chatting with Guillermo who was in the process
of renovating his mini market/gift shop after last summer's fire. We talked
about his annual Memorial Day Yellowtail Fishing
Tournament and his plans to expand his sportfishing fleet with
a new and larger boat. We sipped Chilean white wine, sampled Richard L.'s
freshly smoked yellowtail, and feasted on delicious cheese enchiladas and
an outstanding seafood combination platter of lobster, scallops, fish filet
and shrimp in a tangy Veracruz sauce. It was the perfect ending for our
last night in Bay of L.A.
Sun., Sept. 26
9am - Guillermo and family had departed for Ensenada. Fellow guests
and campers had departed for Mulege and points south. We, too, made our
departure with a side trip to the nearby Montevideo
cave paintings in mind.
After
traveling about 14.5 miles on the L.A. Bay highway, we turned left on the
graded sand road to Mision San Borja. After
2 miles, we turned left at the "Y" intersection. The narrow sand road wound
through a cactus forest with cirio, elephant trees and giant cardon before
making a slight drop, after 6 miles, into a canyon. On the right, interspersed
along the rock walls, were the white, yellow, ochre and black pictographs
drawn by ancient inhabitants of the area. We spent some time climbing rocks
and admiring this remarkable abstract and geometric art before continuing
our journey home.
Note: Although the sand road is fairly smooth, it
is punctuated with a few rough, rocky patches. Drive with extreme care
or, better yet, have a high clearance vehicle. The road is relatively untraveled,
so expect a few "Baja body scars" from overgrown brush.
6pm - We arrived at Rancho Santa Ines
and camped for the night.
Mon., Sept. 27
8am
- We sipped coffee at the tiny Santa Ines Restaurantwhile
waiting for the fog to clear. Back on the highway, we noticed gasoline
in drums being sold across the road from the Catavina
Pemex station. About 37 miles north, we took a side trip to the adobe ruins
of
Mision San Fernando de Velicata, the
only Franciscan mission in Baja California, established by Padre Junipero
Serra in 1769.
3pm - In San Quintin we took a welcome
lunch break at Gaston's Cannery at the Old Mill.
We
busily devoured spicy beef enchiladas, a tasty filet mignon & shrimp
combo, homemade rolls and cheesecake. The food, service and ambiance were
as excellent as we remembered it to be the last time we dined there several
years ago.
We stopped at the tackle shop to check out the fishing.
Nola Gaston reported catches of yellowtail, albacore, dorado, bonita and
limits of red snapper -- but very few anglers to hook up with all the fish!
(Old Mill Sportfishing or RV
Park reservations tel. 1-888-828-BOAT, (619)585-0244, fax (619)691-0855)
7pm - After a brief drug and gun inspection in El
Zorrillo, we arrived home in Ensenada
with 10 rolls of prints, 13 rolls of slides, 5 jars of honey, an L.A. Bay
t-shirt, 2 happy dogs, a bag of dirty laundry and plenty of wonderful memories
to sustain us till our next trip!
F
O O D & E N T E R T A I N M E N T
El Rey
Sol Wins Seafood Fair
By
David Hopps
On September
12, the Ensenada Chamber of Restaurants hosted its
21st Seafood Fair on the spacious grounds of Hotel Paraiso Las
Palmas. More than 1500 visitors enjoyed the entertainment, ambiance and,
of course, the fantastic seafood!
The Ensenada Seafood
Fair promotes the art of seafood preparation and presentation, and features
a culinary contest among restaurants that is judged by Chefs de Cuisine
Assoc. of San Diego. For the eighth time, Ensenada's
El
Rey Sol captured
the Grand Mexican Trophy and also took first place honors in the Ensenada
Soup Category. Other first place winners included Ensenada's Las
Palmas Grill (Artistic
Creation, Cold Shellfish, Hot Shellfish and Most Popular Sample), La
Mansion (Cold Fin Fish), La Bufadora's Costa
Azul (Baja Creation) and Rosarito Beach's La
Casa de la Langosta (Hot Fin Fish and Most Original Sample).
| Ensenada's
Las Cazuelas won the
trophy for Best Booth & Image, an award presented by Ensenada Baja
News-Gazette and www.Ensenada.net.mx. |
 |
Baja
Chili Cookoff a Success!
By Connie Ellig
On
October 2, Ensenada's Quintas Papagayo Resort was the hottest spot in Baja
as more than 700 aficionados gathered for Juan
Hussong’s 23rd Annual Baja International Chili Cookoff & 7th Annual
Salsa Contest. While the aroma of simmering chili floated on
the ocean breezes, the crowd enjoyed line dancing and Mexican folkloric
ballet exhibitions plus live music by Master of Ceremonies Brent BeSaw
and Raul Granados with Grupo Fandango. Other special attractions included
the Senor Hot Sauce Contest won by Tony Corley;
the Ms. Chili Pepper Contest won by Judith Elizabeth
Burgoin; and the Chile Eating Championships won by Jean-Paul
Mercado, who devoured 25 serranos in three minutes.
Nearly
three dozen chili teams from both sides of the border competed for the
honor of representing Baja California at the World’s Championship on Oct.
8-10 in Las Vegas, but Red Brecke (Horny Toad
Chili) of San Diego, Ca. emerged victorious. He received a trophy,
cash prize and various awards including a Weekend for Two at Rancho Cielito
Lindo in San Quintín, and Weekend for Two at Quintas Papagayo with
dinner at Restaurant El Rey Sol. Nibs Waters
of Anaheim, Ca. garnered Second Place Chili, and Larry
Thomas (LT's Suicide Chili) of
Chino, Ca. was awarded Third Place. "People's
Choice" went to Michele Ritchee (Hot Lipz Chili)of
San Diego, Ca./Punta Banda, B.C.
In addition to competing in the Chili
Cookoff, Ensenada restaurants provided plenty of local color and an abundance
of Mexican and international foods. Well rewarded for their efforts were
the Chili Bowl, which won Best Booth/Showmanship,
and Bronco's Steakhouse, which captured
Best Baja Chili (prepared by a local Mexican or American resident) and
Overall Salsa Contest Award.
Proceeds from the Cookoff benefit
the Ensenada Center for Abused Women (Centro de Apoyo a la Mujer Ensenadense),
a nonprofit organization staffed by volunteers.
Start making plans now to join the
Year 2000 Baja Chili Cookoff & Fiesta! For info in the U.S. contact
Pancho McNiff at tel. (626) 795-4818, fax (562) 926-6266; in Mexico contact
Quintas Papagayo Resort, tel. (6) 174-4575, fax 174-4155 or e-mail: [email protected].
Recipe
Of The Month
By Ann Hazard
Sue
and Jim are former urban professionals who have ducked out of the rat race
and expatriated themselves to Baja. There they act as co-presidents of
the La Bufadora Adventurers Club -- a very loosely knit group of us who
love to kayak, snorkel, hike or just hang around on the beach. We have
a lot of fun together. In fact, my kids and I always look forward to honking
our horn at them whenever we glide into town on Friday afternoons at sunset,
so we can plan some major adventures for the weekend. Sometimes, however,
when we come down, they're gone. Where'd they go? you ask. Why -- gallivanting
around Baja -- of course -- the rascals. (Can you tell how envious I am?!
I am. I am. I am.)
This is Sue's incredible chiles
rellenos recipe. She insisted I use it because it is far better than the
one I invented back in college. I had a phobia about blistering and skinning
chiles, so I used canned chiles instead of fresh in my recipe. "Naughty,
naughty," said Sue, shaking her head in disbelief. She proceeded to teach
me how to blister and skin those chiles, and now I will teach you! Serves
six.
CHILES RELLENOS
6 large pasilla (also called
ancho) chiles (spicy) -or-
6 large Anaheim chiles (much
milder)
1/2 pound Chihuahua or Jack cheese,
thinly sliced
1/4 cup flour
6 raw eggs, separated
1/2 cup flour
1/4 tsp. salt
2 cups salsa verde -or- salsa
ranchera (jar salsa is ok)
To blister chiles, cook over a
gas burner, turning constantly until they are evenly charred and stop making
popping sounds. Wrap each chile in a paper towel and moisten with water
to steam. After a few minutes, peel skin off chile and cut a slit almost
the full length of each chile. Make a small "t" across the top, by the
stem. Pull out fibers and seeds (the seeds are where
the heat is) and replace with
a slice of cheese.
Whip egg whites at high speed
until stiff peaks have formed. (Sue does this by hand with a wire whisk.)
At the same time, heat the oil in a skillet until a drop of water sizzles
when put into pan. Beat egg yolks with one tablespoon flour and salt. Mix
into egg whites and stir until you have a thick paste.
Roll chiles in 1/4 cup flour and
dip in egg batter, seam side down. Fry on both sides, then drain on paper
towels. Meanwhile, heat salsa (either one or some of each) and pour over
chiles rellenos. Serve immediately with carne asada, enchiladas or carnitas
as a split entree. Or serve alone and savor the flavor. I can't even begin
to tell you how good these are!
Ann Hazard is a third generation
Baja aficionada who resides in Solana Beach, CA and a weekend getaway at
La Bufadora, a few miles south of Ensenada. She has followed her grandfather's
and father's footsteps up and down the peninsula since she was a small
child. Her family's adventures are woven into the 175 recipes contained
in COOKING WITH BAJA MAGIC: Mouth-Watering Meals from the Enchanted Kitchens
& Campfires of Baja. The 240-page book features an outstanding array
of easy-to-prepare recipes including salsas, appetizers, soups, salads,
entrees, desserts and beverages, along with the colorful, festive artwork
of Laguna Beach artist Bob Bonn.
To order at discount prices,
click COOKING
WITH BAJA MAGIC or Ann's second book, CARTWHEELS
IN THE SAND, a novel about Baja California, four women and a motor
home.
Meet
Ann Hazard!
Sample some goodies from COOKING WITH BAJA MAGIC and purchase personally
autographed copies of her books for Christmas gifts!
Oct. 30: Great News Cooking Store
in Pacific Beach, CA
Nov. 14: Poinsettia Street Festival
in Encinitas, CA
Dec. 1: "A Baja Holiday Dinner
Party" Cooking Class at Great News Cooking Store in Pacific Beach, CA
Dec. 16 - Jan. 3: Book-Signing
Fiestas in Mulege, Bahia Concepcion, Loreto, La Paz and Todos Santos
For times and details click www.BajaMagic.com
or e-mail: [email protected] to hook
up with her during her travels in Baja Sur. |
Ensenada-Baja
News-Gazette
affiliate of
Ensenada
Today
& Baja-Web
-
-
Publisher:
-
JDK-Webs
-
Jens Kolbowski
Editor in chief:
-
Connie Ellig
-
Tel / Fax :
-
(6)-176-4159
Photos by:
-
David Hopps
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