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Nov.1999
W H A T ' S   N E W


On  The  Road... Again!
With Connie Ellig & David Hopps

From September 20-27, we traveled from our home in Ensenada to Bay of L.A. Our assignment was to shoot photos and compile information for the Baja California State Secretary of Tourism for a new brochure that would promote Bahia de los Angeles, one of the most beautiful bays in the state, where desert and mountains meet the Sea of Cortez. We were accompanied by our two dogs, boxes of Ensenada brochures for the L.A. Bay Tourist Information Office at Guillermo's Restaurant, and lots of camera equipment. We met new friends, rediscovered old ones, explored new places and shot a lot of film. This is the story of our photographic, eco-touristic and culinary odyssey.

Mon., Sept. 20
9pm - After spending 1 1/2 days packing the Suburban, we finally departed from Ensenada much later than anticipated. Driving at night in Baja generally is not a good idea. Numerous semis, vehicles lacking proper lights and variable highway conditions challenge even the most experienced driver. Mexican auto insurance is a must.

9:45pm - After topping the tank, checking tire pressure, etc., we finally reached El Zorrillocheckpoint several miles south of Maneadero at Km. 31.5. Although we were prepared with proper documentation to travel further south, there were no Immigration officials present that night. We received a cursory inspection for drugs and guns from the federal police (PGR) who waved us on our merry way. Without further ado, we continued to San Quintin and camped at Rancho Cielito Lindo.

Tues., Sept. 21
8am - We awoke to the splatter of rain, courtesy of Hurricane Hillary, and then chatted with Cielito Lindomanager Kim Haga, Juanita's daughter, now in charge of hotel and San Quintin Sportfishing reservations at tel. 619-593-2252 (voice mail) or e-mail: [email protected]

10am - On the highway about 7 miles south, we encountered a half mile of road work with only one lane open. Since there was little traffic, there was only a short delay.

11am - After topping off in El Rosario, we stopped at Espinoza's Restaurant. Manager Roly Espinoza assured us that "Mama" (Dona Anita) was in good health and wished us "Vaya con Dios." Taking that literally, we visited Mision de Nuestra Senora del Rosario in "upper" El Rosario, about 1/4 mile south of the Delegacion Office. The side road east is marked with a small sign; the mission is about 100 yards from the highway.

1:15pm - No gasoline in Catavina and no idea when it is expected. We purchased wild honey at the cafe/mini market across the highway. Just south of the Rancho Santa Ines turnoff, we encountered a military checkpoint. After a courteous "Where are you from?" and "Where are you going?" we were waved on.

4pm - We arrived in Bahia de los Angeles, a process that took longer than usual because of patches of potholes along the L.A. Bay highway. Our advice is to stay alert and take it easy. It's better to let the fishing wait than to risk a flat tire or broken trailer axle.
    Near the town entrance gasoline was available from drums for 5.58 pesos/liter. (Ouch!!! The normal price for Magna is 4.45 pesos/liter at Pemex stations. But since gas is hauled 120 miles from Guerrero Negro, we suppose folks are entitled to make a profit on it.)
    Since the official "tourism headquarters" at Guillermo's Hotel were booked up, we spent our first night in a beachfront cabana at Casa Diaz (dbl. occ. $25dlls., triple $28dlls.). Although rustic and in need of a little paint, our room was very clean. In addition to beds, there were lightweight folding cots that we moved onto the porch. Since the weather was hot and humid, the porch was our favorite place to enjoy the slight ocean breeze. Coincidentally, our neighboring guest was a doctor from Ensenada who used to live across the street from us! (Casa Diaz reservations tel. (66)50-3207, fax (66)50-3206)
    We dined at the Isla, a fairly new restaurant with an oceanview palapa atop Isla Market, located near the town entrance. The fairly extensive menu featured seafood and Mexican dishes served from 7am-9pm. The service was good, the atmosphere pleasant, the portions abundant. Scallops in garlic butter, carne asada Tampiquena, a beer and a soda were reasonably priced at $18dlls.

Wed., Sept. 22
5:30am - David took off on a panga with Tourism Delegate Guillermo Galvan to shoot photos of fishermen from Fresno, Ca. and Mexicali, B.C. I enjoyed the beachfront breeze, took a dip in the warm sea, and began writing this report.

11:30am - David returned from the fishing trip with tales of yellowtail, cabrilla and triggerfish, and sightings of a finback whale and schools of leaping dolphin. After a brief siesta, we relocated to Guillermo's Hotel. Our beachfront room was very huge and very clean, with a large dressing room and separate bath (dbl. occ. approx. $60dlls., each add'l person $11dlls.). Once again, our favorite spot was the porch. (Guillermo's Hotel reservations: (66)50-3209)
    We enjoyed an evening dinner of delicious fresh fish fillet in garlic butter and Scallops Guillermo (wrapped in bacon with butter, garlic and wine sauce), then scheduled a boat cruise to the islands for the following morning. We then watched a full moon light up the bay.

Thurs., Sept. 23
7am - An overcast day had dawned. Since our main objective was to shoot photos, we were forced to re-schedule our cruise. However, we decided to make full use of our time by exploring the area north of town on the dirt road to Punta La Gringa.

10:30am - Our first stop was at Brisa Marina RV Park,an abandoned looking camp that houses CRIP Sea Turtle Conservation & Research Center, also known as "Tony's Turtle Farm" because it is run by government biologist Antonio Resendiz. We didn't meet Tony, but we did meet about two dozen tagged Loggerhead Sea Turtles. The Loggerhead, which can grow up to 400 lbs., is one of seven species of marine turtle found in temperate and subtropical ocean waters across the globe. After admiring and photographing these interesting creatures, we continued north to Daggett's Campground.
    We were greeted by Ruben Daggett, grandson of Dick Daggett, one of the legendary pioneer founders of Bahia de los Angeles. Ruben showed us around his spotless beachfront campground which featured 19 palapas, BBQ pits, a shaded fish cleaning station, boat ramp, RV dump and bathrooms with hot showers ($6dlls. for 2 persons, $2dlls. each add'l). Kayaks and pangas for fishing, diving or whale watching trips were also available. (Daggett's reservations tel. (66)50-3207, fax (66)50-3206) We shot photos of Larry & Susan S., first-time visitors from Escondido, Calif., who were pleased to assume the difficult pose of relaxing under the shade of their palapa.
    We continued "next door" to Larry & Raquel's Place, L.A. Bay's newest 5-room (4 more under construction) motel on the beach. Owners Raquel & Larry Fife gave us a mini-tour of the spacious rooms (dbl. occ. $40dlls.) and restaurant featuring seafood and Mexican dishes from 7am-10pm. Additional amenities included a boat ramp, kayak rentals and dive shop with tanks and compressor. (Raquel's reservations tel. (619)429-7935, 1-800-670-7075, e-mail: [email protected])

2:30pm - We followed the winding road to Punta La Gringa, usually full of campers, but on this day, deserted. We decided to return to town to shoot the designated "room photo" at Costa del Sol, the town's second-newest hotel.
    Designed by architect/manager Sandra Lopez, Costa del Sol Hotel features a quaint courtyard patio, cozy bar that also serves breakfast, and 7 tastefully decorated rooms with 24-hour solar-powered air-conditioning (dbl. occ. $50dlls.). We took our time shooting photos in air-conditioned comfort. (Costa del Sol reservations/kayak rentals cell tel. (6)185-5835, cell (5)151-4195, fax (66)50-3206, e-mail: [email protected])
    After the long and exhausting day, we grilled Louisiana hot links on our barbecue and slipped into sleep.

Fri., Sept. 24
7am - The day was clear so we loaded up cameras, a cooler, dogs and ourselves aboard Guillermo's panga with Island Cruise Tour guide Pepe Smith. We saw schools of leaping dolphin in the bay, large colonies of sea lions at Isla Calaveras, and the natural "window" at Isla La Ventana. Upon Pepe's recommendation we waded ashore at La Unica Wilderness Retreat to take a few shots.
    We were greeted by Kevin Warren, owner of Baja Airventures, which features all-inclusive (including private R/T air from San Diego) eco-adventure vacations to this unique getaway that is accessible only by boat. Situated on a beautiful white sand beach, La Unica offers private bungalows, a central palapa that serves as a dining area, cantina and lounge, and the opportunity to explore nearby reefs and hidden coves by kayak, skiff or sailboat. (La Unica reservations tel. 1-800-221-9283, fax (619)216-3446, or visit www.bajaairventures.com)
    Pepe motored north along the coast to Puerto Don Juan, a natural harbor with pristine waters and excellent anchorage. Complete with a half sunken boat, sand and pebble beaches, this hidden cove was right out of a movie set!

Noon - Back at Guillermo's, we thanked Pepe for the fantastic sightseeing cruise and promised to try the local fishing next time! We had no sooner spoken than Richard L., of Lake Havasu City, Az., pulled up with his trailered C-Dory, eight 15-20 lb. yellowtail and a few cabrilla hooked with mackerel near Smith Island. He and his fishing guide, Joel Prieta, posed for a few shots until, dog-tired from the fresh sea breeze, the four of us retired for a siesta.

6pm - We stopped for ice at Isla Market, the newest and most modern grocery store in town. Similar to an AM-PM, Isla is well-stocked with a bit of everything: liquor, beer, toiletries, non-prescription medicines, paper goods, Mexican and U.S. dairy products, cold meats, snacks and canned goods, and a limited supply of fresh vegetables. We met owner Rodolfo Espejo, who recently opened Isla Construction Materials which offers cement blocks, paint, waterproofing and other building supplies. His friend, Octavio Lopez, offered to take David halfway up a mountain to shoot panoramic photos on the following afternoon. After chitchat in the parking lot, we headed across the street to Restaurant Las Hamacas.
    We dined on the oceanview terrace. After sampling chips with a wonderfully spicy serrano salsa, we savored hearty portions of carne asada Tampiquena and scallops in garlic butter. Open 6am-9pm (closed Tues.), the restaurant features a good selection of  reasonably priced Mexican and seafood dishes including lobster in season. Las Hamacas also offers a 10-room hotel (dbl. occ. $35-55dlls.) and local or long distance taxi service (tel. (66)50-3207, fax (66)50-3206).

Sat., Sept. 25
8am - After several cups of courtesy coffee, we set off to explore the area south of town on the road to San Francisquito. But after traveling only a few miles along the bumpy dirt road, our cooling system sprang a leak, so it was back to town for repairs.

2pm - Time to shoot our designated "dining photo" on Guillermo's beachfront palapa patio. We enlisted the aid of  Amber W. and Chuck S., first-time visitors from San Francisco, Ca., who were happy to assume the difficult pose of sipping pina coladas and margaritas laced with Damiana liqueur. Afterward, I checked out Richard's L.'s catch of three 25-30 lb. yellowtail while David took off to pick up our vehicle, visit the museum, and shoot panoramic photos with Octavio.

6pm - We spent the evening chatting with Guillermo who was in the process of renovating his mini market/gift shop after last summer's fire. We talked about his annual Memorial Day Yellowtail Fishing Tournament and his plans to expand his sportfishing fleet with a new and larger boat. We sipped Chilean white wine, sampled Richard L.'s freshly smoked yellowtail, and feasted on delicious cheese enchiladas and an outstanding seafood combination platter of lobster, scallops, fish filet and shrimp in a tangy Veracruz sauce. It was the perfect ending for our last night in Bay of L.A.

Sun., Sept. 26
9am - Guillermo and family had departed for Ensenada. Fellow guests and campers had departed for Mulege and points south. We, too, made our departure with a side trip to the nearby Montevideo cave paintings in mind.
After traveling about 14.5 miles on the L.A. Bay highway, we turned left on the graded sand road to Mision San Borja. After 2 miles, we turned left at the "Y" intersection. The narrow sand road wound through a cactus forest with cirio, elephant trees and giant cardon before making a slight drop, after 6 miles, into a canyon. On the right, interspersed along the rock walls, were the white, yellow, ochre and black pictographs drawn by ancient inhabitants of the area. We spent some time climbing rocks and admiring this remarkable abstract and geometric art before continuing our journey home.
    Note: Although the sand road is fairly smooth, it is punctuated with a few rough, rocky patches. Drive with extreme care or, better yet, have a high clearance vehicle. The road is relatively untraveled, so expect a few "Baja body scars" from overgrown brush.

6pm - We arrived at Rancho Santa Ines and camped for the night.

Mon., Sept. 27
8am - We sipped coffee at the tiny Santa Ines Restaurantwhile waiting for the fog to clear. Back on the highway, we noticed gasoline in drums being sold across the road from the Catavina Pemex station. About 37 miles north, we took a side trip to the adobe ruins of Mision San Fernando de Velicata, the only Franciscan mission in Baja California, established by Padre Junipero Serra in 1769.

3pm - In San Quintin we took a welcome lunch break at Gaston's Cannery at the Old Mill. We busily devoured spicy beef enchiladas, a tasty filet mignon & shrimp combo, homemade rolls and cheesecake. The food, service and ambiance were as excellent as we remembered it to be the last time we dined there several years ago.
    We stopped at the tackle shop to check out the fishing. Nola Gaston reported catches of yellowtail, albacore, dorado, bonita and limits of red snapper -- but very few anglers to hook up with all the fish! (Old Mill Sportfishing or RV Park reservations tel. 1-888-828-BOAT, (619)585-0244, fax (619)691-0855)

7pm - After a brief drug and gun inspection in El Zorrillo, we arrived home in Ensenada with 10 rolls of prints, 13 rolls of slides, 5 jars of honey, an L.A. Bay t-shirt, 2 happy dogs, a bag of dirty laundry and plenty of wonderful memories to sustain us till our next trip!



F O O D  &  E N T E R T A I N M E N T


El Rey Sol Wins Seafood Fair
By David Hopps

On September 12, the Ensenada Chamber of Restaurants hosted its 21st Seafood Fair on the spacious grounds of Hotel Paraiso Las Palmas. More than 1500 visitors enjoyed the entertainment, ambiance and, of course, the fantastic seafood!

The Ensenada Seafood Fair promotes the art of seafood preparation and presentation, and features a culinary contest among restaurants that is judged by Chefs de Cuisine Assoc. of San Diego. For the eighth time, Ensenada's El Rey Solcaptured the Grand Mexican Trophy and also took first place honors in the Ensenada Soup Category. Other first place winners included Ensenada's Las Palmas Grill(Artistic Creation, Cold Shellfish, Hot Shellfish and Most Popular Sample), La Mansion (Cold Fin Fish), La Bufadora's Costa Azul (Baja Creation) and Rosarito Beach's La Casa de la Langosta (Hot Fin Fish and Most Original Sample).
 
Ensenada's Las Cazuelas won the trophy for Best Booth & Image, an award presented by Ensenada Baja News-Gazette and www.Ensenada.net.mx.



Baja Chili Cookoff a Success!
By Connie Ellig

On October 2, Ensenada's Quintas Papagayo Resort was the hottest spot in Baja as more than 700 aficionados gathered for Juan Hussong’s 23rd Annual Baja International Chili Cookoff & 7th Annual Salsa Contest. While the aroma of simmering chili floated on the ocean breezes, the crowd enjoyed line dancing and Mexican folkloric ballet exhibitions plus live music by Master of Ceremonies Brent BeSaw and Raul Granados with Grupo Fandango. Other special attractions included the Senor Hot Sauce Contest won by Tony Corley; the Ms. Chili Pepper Contest won by Judith Elizabeth Burgoin; and the Chile Eating Championships won by Jean-Paul Mercado, who devoured 25 serranos in three minutes.

Nearly three dozen chili teams from both sides of the border competed for the honor of representing Baja California at the World’s Championship on Oct. 8-10 in Las Vegas, but Red Brecke (Horny Toad Chili) of San Diego, Ca. emerged victorious. He received a trophy, cash prize and various awards including a Weekend for Two at Rancho Cielito Lindo in San Quintín, and Weekend for Two at Quintas Papagayo with dinner at Restaurant El Rey Sol. Nibs Waters of Anaheim, Ca. garnered Second Place Chili, and Larry Thomas (LT's Suicide Chili) of Chino, Ca. was awarded Third Place. "People's Choice" went to Michele Ritchee (Hot Lipz Chili)of San Diego, Ca./Punta Banda, B.C.

In addition to competing in the Chili Cookoff, Ensenada restaurants provided plenty of local color and an abundance of Mexican and international foods. Well rewarded for their efforts were the Chili Bowl, which won Best Booth/Showmanship, and Bronco's Steakhouse, which captured Best Baja Chili (prepared by a local Mexican or American resident) and Overall Salsa Contest Award.

Proceeds from the Cookoff benefit the Ensenada Center for Abused Women (Centro de Apoyo a la Mujer Ensenadense), a nonprofit organization staffed by volunteers.

Start making plans now to join the Year 2000 Baja Chili Cookoff & Fiesta! For info in the U.S. contact Pancho McNiff at tel. (626) 795-4818, fax (562) 926-6266; in Mexico contact Quintas Papagayo Resort, tel. (6) 174-4575, fax 174-4155 or e-mail: [email protected].



Recipe Of The Month
By Ann Hazard

Sue and Jim are former urban professionals who have ducked out of the rat race and expatriated themselves to Baja. There they act as co-presidents of the La Bufadora Adventurers Club -- a very loosely knit group of us who love to kayak, snorkel, hike or just hang around on the beach. We have a lot of fun together. In fact, my kids and I always look forward to honking our horn at them whenever we glide into town on Friday afternoons at sunset, so we can plan some major adventures for the weekend. Sometimes, however, when we come down, they're gone. Where'd they go? you ask. Why -- gallivanting around Baja -- of course -- the rascals. (Can you tell how envious I am?! I am. I am. I am.)

This is Sue's incredible chiles rellenos recipe. She insisted I use it because it is far better than the one I invented back in college. I had a phobia about blistering and skinning chiles, so I used canned chiles instead of fresh in my recipe. "Naughty, naughty," said Sue, shaking her head in disbelief. She proceeded to teach me how to blister and skin those chiles, and now I will teach you! Serves six.

CHILES RELLENOS
6 large pasilla (also called ancho) chiles (spicy) -or-
6 large Anaheim chiles (much milder)
1/2 pound Chihuahua or Jack cheese, thinly sliced
1/4 cup flour
6 raw eggs, separated
1/2 cup flour
1/4 tsp. salt
2 cups salsa verde -or- salsa ranchera (jar salsa is ok)

To blister chiles, cook over a gas burner, turning constantly until they are evenly charred and stop making popping sounds. Wrap each chile in a paper towel and moisten with water to steam. After a few minutes, peel skin off chile and cut a slit almost the full length of each chile. Make a small "t" across the top, by the stem. Pull out fibers and seeds (the seeds are where
the heat is) and replace with a slice of cheese.

Whip egg whites at high speed until stiff peaks have formed. (Sue does this by hand with a wire whisk.)  At the same time, heat the oil in a skillet until a drop of water sizzles when put into pan. Beat egg yolks with one tablespoon flour and salt. Mix into egg whites and stir until you have a thick paste.

Roll chiles in 1/4 cup flour and dip in egg batter, seam side down. Fry on both sides, then drain on paper towels. Meanwhile, heat salsa (either one or some of each) and pour over chiles rellenos. Serve immediately with carne asada, enchiladas or carnitas as a split entree. Or serve alone and savor the flavor. I can't even begin to tell you how good these are!

Ann Hazard is a third generation Baja aficionada who resides in Solana Beach, CA and a weekend getaway at La Bufadora, a few miles south of Ensenada. She has followed her grandfather's and father's footsteps up and down the peninsula since she was a small child. Her family's adventures are woven into the 175 recipes contained in COOKING WITH BAJA MAGIC: Mouth-Watering Meals from the Enchanted Kitchens & Campfires of Baja. The 240-page book features an outstanding array of easy-to-prepare recipes including salsas, appetizers, soups, salads, entrees, desserts and beverages, along with the colorful, festive artwork of Laguna Beach artist Bob Bonn.

To order at discount prices, click COOKING WITH BAJA MAGIC or Ann's second book, CARTWHEELS IN THE SAND, a novel about Baja California, four women and a motor home.


Meet Ann Hazard!
Sample some goodies from COOKING WITH BAJA MAGIC and purchase personally autographed copies of her books for Christmas gifts!
Oct. 30: Great News Cooking Store in Pacific Beach, CA
Nov. 14: Poinsettia Street Festival in Encinitas, CA
Dec. 1: "A Baja Holiday Dinner Party" Cooking Class at Great News Cooking Store in Pacific Beach, CA
Dec. 16 - Jan. 3: Book-Signing Fiestas in Mulege, Bahia Concepcion, Loreto, La Paz and Todos Santos 
For times and details click www.BajaMagic.com or e-mail: [email protected] to hook up with her during her travels in Baja Sur.
Ensenada-Baja
News-Gazette 
affiliate of 
Ensenada Today
& Baja-Web

Publisher: 
JDK-Webs 
Jens Kolbowski
Editor in chief:
 
Connie Ellig 
Tel / Fax : 
(6)-176-4159
Photos by:
 
David Hopps
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